{"id":35695,"date":"2019-12-24T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-12-23T23:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.crowdfarming.com\/non-categorise\/en-camargue-poussent-des-huitres-noisettees\/"},"modified":"2026-05-06T11:13:48","modified_gmt":"2026-05-06T09:13:48","slug":"en-camargue-poussent-des-huitres-noisettees","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/laruchequiditoui.fr\/what-the-field\/fr\/sur-le-terrain\/en-camargue-poussent-des-huitres-noisettees\/","title":{"rendered":"En Camargue poussent des hu\u00eetres noisett\u00e9es"},"content":{"rendered":"

Depuis 2016, l\u2019hu\u00eetre a \u00e9t\u00e9 immerg\u00e9e en Camargue. Celle qui na\u00eet parmi les flamants roses et les poissons sauvages se caract\u00e9rise par son go\u00fbt de noisette. Rencontre avec Maria-Nieves Castejon, la premi\u00e8re productrice bio de la r\u00e9gion Sud.<\/p>\n

Mais quelle est donc cette hu\u00eetre qui, apr\u00e8s seulement six mois d’existence, a d\u00e9croch\u00e9 la m\u00e9daille de bronze au Concours g\u00e9n\u00e9ral agricole 2016\u2009? Produite \u00e0 Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rh\u00f4ne, dans l\u2019enceinte du Parc national de Camargue<\/a>, la perle de Camargue est cultiv\u00e9e dans un milieu naturel exceptionnel. Riziculteurs, sauniers, p\u00eacheurs \u00e0 pied, \u00e9leveurs se partagent l\u2019espace avec le devoir, pour chacun, de respecter la biodiversit\u00e9.<\/p>\n

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Il faut naviguer quinze minutes avant d\u2019atteindre l’anse de Carteau, o\u00f9 se trouvent les huit hectares de parcs \u00e0 hu\u00eetres. Lorsqu\u2019ils sortent leurs bateaux, les ostr\u00e9iculteurs se frayent un passage au milieu des flamants roses. En chemin, ils croisent des cygnes, des mouettes, des cormorans et autres poissons sauvages.<\/p>\n

L\u2019anse de Carteau est brass\u00e9e par les courants et les vents, ce qui contribue \u00e0 la qualit\u00e9 de l\u2019eau<\/em>, assure Maria-Nieves Castejon. De plus, elle b\u00e9n\u00e9ficie d\u2019un apport d\u2019eau douce du sud du Rh\u00f4ne. <\/em>Avant d\u2019arriver jusqu\u2019\u00e0 l\u2019anse, le fleuve traverse les marais, dont les roseaux constituent des filtres naturels. L\u2019eau qui arrive, un peu saum\u00e2tre, contient un plancton tr\u00e8s riche dont les hu\u00eetres sont friandes.<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

Maria-Nieves a quitt\u00e9 sa Castille natale pour suivre son mari Frank sur ses terres camarguaises. D\u2019abord n\u00e9gociants en coquillages, ils deviennent producteurs de moules. Mais \u00e0 partir des ann\u00e9es 1990, les conchyliculteurs subissent durement la concurrence des moules espagnoles et italiennes. C\u2019est alors qu\u2019une dizaine de producteurs de Port-Saint-Louis-du-Rh\u00f4ne se rassemble pour demander l\u2019autorisation de cultiver l\u2019hu\u00eetre. Nous avons fait des tests pour voir si elles donnaient de bons r\u00e9sultats<\/em>, explique Maria-Nieves. Nous avons vu que le produit \u00e9tait beau et qu\u2019il ne portait pas pr\u00e9judice aux esp\u00e8ces autochtones.<\/em><\/p>\n

Diplo\u00efde ou triplo\u00efde, il faut choisir<\/h3>\n

Elle se lance alors dans la culture bio de l’hu\u00eetre (et aussi de la moule). En quoi se distingue-t-elle de la \u00ab\u2009classique\u2009\u00bb\u2009? Par son origine, d\u2019abord. La plupart des hu\u00eetres que l\u2019on consomme sont g\u00e9n\u00e9tiquement modifi\u00e9es<\/em>, indique Maria-Nieves. C\u2019est l\u2019hu\u00eetre triplo\u00efde. Elle na\u00eet en \u00e9closerie et est st\u00e9rile pour \u00eatre pleine toute l\u2019ann\u00e9e. En bio, on travaille sur des hu\u00eetres diplo\u00efdes<\/em>, poursuit la conchylicultrice. Ce sont les hu\u00eetres d\u2019antan, elles sont n\u00e9es dans la mer. <\/em>Ces hu\u00eetres ne se consomment que de septembre \u00e0 mai, selon la fameuse r\u00e8gle des \u00ab\u2009mois en r\u2009\u00bb, l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e9tant la saison de production des larves, ce qui donne aux hu\u00eetres leur aspect laiteux (bonne nouvelle\u2009: c\u2019est la meilleure p\u00e9riode pour consommer des moules\u2009!).<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

Ce sont les hu\u00eetres d\u2019antan, elles sont n\u00e9es dans la mer.<\/p>\n

L\u2019hu\u00eetre bio est par ailleurs \u00e9lev\u00e9e en plus faible densit\u00e9. Lorsqu\u2019elles atteignent la taille d\u2019un demi-doigt, les hu\u00eetres sont coll\u00e9es avec du ciment sur des cordes pendues \u00e0 des perches, elles-m\u00eames fix\u00e9es sur des rails de chemins de fer plant\u00e9s dans le s\u00e9diment. Elles restent immerg\u00e9es dans l\u2019eau pendant douze mois. Lorsqu\u2019on fabrique nos cordes, nous mettons moiti\u00e9 moins d\u2019unit\u00e9s qu\u2019un producteur non bio<\/em>, affirme Maria-Nieves. Enfin, le cahier des charges oblige les producteurs \u00e0 avoir des analyses beaucoup plus pouss\u00e9es qu\u2019en conventionnel en mati\u00e8re de m\u00e9taux lourds, pesticides et autres produits toxiques.<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n

Un go\u00fbt sucr\u00e9-sal\u00e9<\/h3>\n

Selon l\u2019ostr\u00e9icultrice, la perle de Camargue a un go\u00fbt tr\u00e8s diff\u00e9rent des hu\u00eetres de M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e. Elle est \u00e0 la fois sucr\u00e9e et sal\u00e9e. La connotation sucr\u00e9e, l’ar\u00f4me noisette, vient du muscle, qui est assez important car la coquille doit \u00eatre forte pour affronter les courants. Et c’est l\u2019apport d\u2019eau douce qui adoucit la salinit\u00e9 du bijou camarguais par rapport \u00e0 ses s\u0153urs m\u00e9diterran\u00e9ennes.<\/p>\n

Avec une production de 5 tonnes d\u2019hu\u00eetres bio la premi\u00e8re ann\u00e9e et 20 tonnes en 2018, Maria-Nieves semble avoir r\u00e9ussi son pari. Depuis, son fils Daniel, \u00e9tudiant en master 2 dans une \u00e9cole de commerce, a souhait\u00e9 la rejoindre au sein de Camargue Coquillages<\/a>. Leur id\u00e9e est d\u2019\u00e9tendre la production afin de pouvoir exporter vers les pays anglophones. Pour le moment, la production s\u2019\u00e9coule enti\u00e8rement dans le sud de la France et les march\u00e9s… espagnols et italiens. Pour venger la moule.<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Depuis 2016, l\u2019hu\u00eetre a \u00e9t\u00e9 immerg\u00e9e en Camargue. Celle qui na\u00eet parmi les flamants roses et les poissons sauvages se caract\u00e9rise par son go\u00fbt de noisette. Rencontre avec Maria-Nieves Castejon, la premi\u00e8re productrice bio de la r\u00e9gion Sud. Mais quelle est donc cette hu\u00eetre qui, apr\u00e8s seulement six mois d’existence, a d\u00e9croch\u00e9 la m\u00e9daille de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":117,"featured_media":35696,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[497],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-35695","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-sur-le-terrain"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nEn Camargue poussent des hu\u00eetres noisett\u00e9es - WTF<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/laruchequiditoui.fr\/fr\/what-the-field\/sur-le-terrain\/en-camargue-poussent-des-huitres-noisettees\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"En Camargue poussent des hu\u00eetres noisett\u00e9es - WTF\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Depuis 2016, l\u2019hu\u00eetre a \u00e9t\u00e9 immerg\u00e9e en Camargue. Celle qui na\u00eet parmi les flamants roses et les poissons sauvages se caract\u00e9rise par son go\u00fbt de noisette. Rencontre avec Maria-Nieves Castejon, la premi\u00e8re productrice bio de la r\u00e9gion Sud. 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